Eating Out: Darren Teoh at Test Kitchen Hong Kong
I’ve been to Test Kitchen twice now – an interesting concept that brings in different chefs to cook for a couple of days. The first was an uneventful dinner by Rice Paper Scissors quite a while back and I didn’t have any desire to to go back since, but my Malaysian friend coaxed me into going for Darren Teoh’s dinner. She hadn’t tried his food, but heard plenty good things about it.
I no longer eat red meat, and this goat tartare was smelling like a live animal by the time it was brought to the table. It was clearly the least favourite dish of everyone, left unfinished. It was smothered in spices, but it couldn’t take away the gamey smell.
The menu was interesting to say the least and I loved the local foraging approach using plenty of local produce – Southeast Asia’s climate is afterall fertile for bountiful produce.
You get lots of rich and complex Southeast Asian flavours in the dishes. My favourites were the mango curry amuse bouche, fish with braised daikon radish, durian and sour cashew sauce (Yum!!) and the black banana porridge served with glazed beef ribs with roselle (didn’t eat the ribs but the porridge was a little tart with a beautiful acidity that I can imagine would cut through the grease of those ribs).