The Cha Chaan Teng is an intangible cultural heritage in Hong Kong and a unique facet of Hong Kong’s dining scene, serving affordable and filling meals for the masses complete with brash, speedy service.
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The Western-influenced Asian staples include pork chop rice, chicken soup macaroni with ham, baked rice and pasta with cheese. A typical menu includes pork chop buns, pineapple buns, instant noodles with spam and egg, beef or pork chops, and macaroni chicken soup with ham or pork chop rice. Soy sauce and ketchup are often used in marinates and flavouring these East-West dishes.
“Tea restaurant” – a literal translation of the local diners that serve up dishes with a Western twist. They came into being during the post-war, British colonial era in the 1950s when industrialisation meant many women headed out to work in the factories to rebuild the economy. These Asian “fast food” Cha Chaan Tengs sprang up across the city, in residential neighbourhoods and beyond. The predecessors of the Cha Chaan Tengs are dai pai dongs – outdoor eateries and the bing saat – ice chamber serving cold drinks before the availability of refrigerators in households.
Everyone has their own favourite Cha Chaan Teng, and rating a best is subjective and unjust. Unlike Michelin guide ratings, these local diners don’t merit a detour to visit. Over the decades, these local diners have also served as many movie set locations given that it’s an integral part of Hong Kong life.
The speedy surly service is all part of the experience – embrace it! I’ve been yelled it for being slow to sit down, to eat, chatting and not hurrying up to slurp my noodles, taking too much space with my bag, and for being indecisive and taking too long to order. Don’t take it personally, it’s part of daily life in Hong Kong. To be fair, they are a little more patient when I have my young kid with me, even kindly offering a smaller bowl for him to eat the noodles as we share a bowl.
